Exterior House Painting Sydney

• Rendered and bagged brick

• Face brick

• Weatherboard and timber cladding

• Fibro and cement sheet

• Eaves, fascias and barge boards

• Gutters and downpipes

• Windows, doors and timber trim

• Balconies, balustrades and pergolas

• Garage doors

If you're near the water — Coogee, Maroubra, Manly, or anywhere with a salt breeze — your exterior is dealing with salt deposits and heavy UV that inland properties never see. Salt sits on the surface and works into any gap it can find; UV breaks down the binder in the paint film until it chalks.

On coastal jobs we pay particular attention to washing off salt before coating, and we talk through product options built for that exposure at the time of quoting. Metalwork near the coast — balustrades, railings, gutters — needs its own approach, because once rust is under the paint film, coating over the top of it doesn't stop it.

How often an exterior needs repainting varies widely with the product, the substrate and the exposure, and general guides are a poor substitute for looking at the actual walls. The signs are more useful than any number. Consider repainting when you see:

Chalking — run your hand down a sunny wall. If it comes away with a powdery residue, the binder has broken down.
Flaking or peeling, particularly on timber trim and eaves.
Fading, usually worst on north and west elevations.
Cracks in render, or gaps opening at joins and around windows.
Mould on shaded southern walls that keeps coming back.
Exposed timber — once bare timber has been weathering for a season or two, you're into repairs, not just paint.

Repainting before the substrate is damaged is far cheaper than repainting after. Once water is getting into timber, the job stops being a paint job.